Article - Memories of Amarnath Yatra
When I heard this year’s Amarnath Yatra has been canceled due to feary Corona virus , I felt myself to be lucky to have had Amarnath darshan a couple of years back . Even today when I recall my Amarnath yatra my heart is filled with memories of joy and adventures of the trip . I feel extremely lucky to have a glimpses of Amarnath’s lingam also known as Baba Barfani . I went there with my spouse. Though both were nearing 65 and having arthritis we decided to have a go as every year we will be aging and will be more difficult to take on the Yatra .
About Amarnath Shrine - As most of us know only during the holy month of Shravan ( usually July - August ) an ice Linga of Shiva ( and Parvati too ) is naturally formed in the Himalayan cave of Amarnath at a height of nearly 3900 metres . One who is willing to have a darshan of Baba Barfani have to visit during this period only . As the lingam subsequently melts, the earlier you go better is chance of seeing big sized Lingam .
About the Amarnath Cave - As per legend lord Shiva chose an isolated place in this cave to narrate secrets of immortality ( Amar Katha ) to Parvatiji . He has set fire at the entrance so that none else could hear this secret . The secret was so sacred that even Shiva had to abandon all His companions on way to cave - Nandi at Pahalgam ,the moon at Chandanwadi , the snake at Sheshnag , and 5 basic elements at Panchtarni i.e. fire ,water ,wind , earth and space ( sky ) . Somehow an egg of pigeon remained under the deer skin of Shiva which subsequently resulted in a pair of pigeons which can be seen even today. It is believed that long long ago Kashmir valley was submerged under water and Kashyap Muni drained it through a number of rivers . When all water was drained Bhrigu muni was the first to have darshan of Amarnath lingam .
According to new study it is believed that a local Gadaria was first to visit the cave and saw the Lingam .
About the Yatra - One has to reach first Srinagar in Jammu and Kashmir union territory. There are two routes of Yatra . One is via Sonmarg ( about 80 km from Srinagar ) and the other via Pahalgam ( about 90 km from Srinagar ) reaching there by road .
Sonmarg route is shorter but rather steep , narrow and dangerous .But the round trip up to the cave can be done in a day or two , depending on weather. From Sonmarg you have to reach Baltal ( 10 km ) by road . From there you have to trek or get Dandies to reach cave 14 km away . From Baltal helipad you can fly by Helicopter up to Panchtarni about 6 km from the cave . From here you can trek or have pony , dandis or Palki .
The Pahalgam route is rather convenient but longer about 36 km or more and can take 3- 5 days each way . But it is wider and less steeper than Baltal route .
Finally About My Memory - As both of us were older , we got the yatra booked as a package tour ex Delhi through a Delhi based agent . Our Delhi onwards entire Yatra was organised by the agent . We were supposed to reach Delhi from our residing place by our own means - train or by air .
Day 1. Delhi - Srinagar - Delhi - This leg of trip was by air , comfortable and hassle free . On reaching Srinagar airport in the afternoon , a driver with SUV was waiting for us . He was supposed to be with us for entire trip .By the time we reached Sonmarg after nearly 4 hours , it was night and quite cool . On the way to Sonmarg there was strict security checking at various points . We had no permit or registration of Yatra but on showing of confirmed hotel and chopper bookings we were allowed to proceed .
Night at Sonmarg hotel - A good hotel was booked by the agent where we spent our night . The hotel served us very good and rich veg. dinner . I personally started vomiting and was having some mild fever and there was no urge for food . Onward journey was tougher one and we spent night in anxiety . Early morning my condition was almost same despite medication but we dared to continue else our Helicopter booking would become invalid .
Day 2 . Sonmarg - Baltal - Panchtarni - We reached at Baltal helipad around 7am as our booking was for 8 am . But on reaching there we were told that weather up in the mountains is very bad and we have to wait till weather was clear to fly . Here free Aloo parathas and tea was being served in a Langar but still I had no urge for food. We could get our boarding pass at 4 pm only though the flight took barely 6 -7 minutes . When we reached Panchtarni helipad it started raining heavily . Fortunately we were ready with winter and rainy season gears but still I was sick . On arriving there my husband too started running some temperature due to height and cold weather .
We followed a bad idea of the agent . He was too optimistic about Panchtarni- Cave - Panchtarni the same day as we were having chopper service we can return to the base after darshan the same day . This was not to be as weather in mountains at heights is not 100 % predictable . We did not book any tent accommodation at Panchtarni as we were not supposed to stay . Not only that the agent thought that after darshan we would be back to Srinagar same night , so my night stay was booked in a Srinagar hotel and return flight to Delhi next day afternoon . Both of these Srinagar hotel and Delhi flight prepaid expenses would go waste . A huge loss and a big inconvenience during return trip .
On landing Panchtarni we learnt that due to bad weather authorities had suspended further Yatra . We were looking for an accommodation but it was night and raining and both having fever , just entered a Langar and could hardly get enough space to sit . There were dozens of Langars serving free food . My husband went to a tented dispensary run by the authorities and got some medicines . With much difficulties we could get a blanket from Langar . We had left all our luggage in the hotel as helicopter did not allow more than 5 kg weight . My husband talked to a Palkiwala for round trip up to the cave next morning if the weather permitted . He assured to report early morning .
Day 3 . Panchtarni - Amarnath Cave- Panchtarni - Practically we did not sleep whole night . Next day early morning fortunately the weather was good and we felt a bit better but the Palki wala did not turn up . He might have got better offer from other pilgrims . Only ponies were available and we had to accept them though unwillingly as we were not comfortable with ponies during our earlier travels . We tried to brush our teeth but there was no water in the tap , it had frozen . We bought mineral water bottle at premium and managed to travel further on ponies.
Panchtarni to the holy cave - It was about 6 km journey along ups and downs of a narrow path by the side of the snow capped mountains on one side . The path was slippery due rains and we had a hard time balancing our body . After about 3 hours journey through tough terrain and glaciers we reached the terminal point of ponies . Beyond that the cave was further 1.5 km away but we could see the cave and huge queue of pilgrims . From here no pony is allowed you can trek or seniors can avail Palki . Fortunately Palkis were available to us for round trip to the cave at premium . We had a cup of tea there to warm up ourselves before proceeding towards the cave. We were advised the benefits of Palkis. Palkis could take us right inside the cave and we were to climb just a few steps ( 8 - 10 ) to have final darshan of Baba Barfani or Shiva or Bholenath’s ice Lingam , whatever you may call . There was huge deployment of security forces all along the route to the cave . There has been threat from terrorists every year .
Within an hour we were in front of a bigger iced Lingam of Shiva and by its side stood a smaller Lingam whom they call Devi Parvati . We felt lucky enough to have seen the Lingas and were more excited to see a pigeon also . People say only lucky ones happen to see them . We were not allowed to stay longer than a couple of minutes by the security forces .
Cave to Panchtarni and Baltal back - We were happier on our return trip , full of satisfaction though fully aware of problems to be faced at Srinagar . We had only prepaid mobiles which were not active in the valley during those days . We were cut off from rest of our family members . We knew this so my husband had given drivers mobile number to our close ones but the driver was also not in touch with us . He could only say that he was waiting for our return from the cave .
We took some snacks and tea before going on back journey . On the return leg the pilgrims were stopped mid way near Sangam , a place where both routes to Cave merge . There was huge rush, thousands of pilgrims were waiting on the narrow Pagdandi as people were allowed to proceed in small numbers to avoid overcrowding and accidents . The pony wala told me there was a short cut , he could slide down the slippery hills with his pony if we too were ready to slide . There was no option otherwise to just wait for hours . We did slid down muddy slopes between the serpentine trekking paths up to a point where pony wala was waiting for us for onward journey up to the helipad . We reached Panchtarni helipad after some time . We could have free food at dozens of Langars but we wanted to return to Sonmarg soon . Luckily we got boarding pass for Baltal helipad soon as there was no rush of returning pilgrims . We were able to return from the cave much quickly .
Baltal to Sonmarg - The driver had been waiting for us since previous morning .We asked for his cell phone and asked the agent about return flight and Srinagar night stay hotel bookings . He gave a blunt reply that it was possible only on additional payment . I asked my daughter to book next day’s Srinagar - Delhi flight and send details on drivers‘s phone . She booked but at heavy price due on short notice booking in peak period . Baltal to our Sonmarg hotel was hardly 20 minutes journey .
Sonmarg to Srinagar - We hurriedly took our breakfast at Sonmarg hotel and started for Srinagar soon . On return we stopped midway and had some snacks and cold drink . After about 4 hours we were at Srinagar . We approached the hotel where we were booked for previous night . We were told our reservation no longer exists and we have to pay for our night stay . We had no choice . There was a good restaurant of Sardarji near the hotel . We got our dinner from there and slept soon as we were too tired
Day 4. Srinagar to Delhi - Next morning we felt much relaxed and better .After breakfast at same restaurant we checked out of hotel for Srinagar airport . The flight was delayed but we were happy to see our mission fulfilled . We reached Delhi , end of our tour . From here onward to my native place was my own arrangement .
We have a very good sweet unforgettable memory of the journey and all those concerned with the Yatra were very friendly and cooperative - be it the driver or the pony wala or the palki wala or the Langar organisers and the fellow pilgrims .
Some Tips - 1. Amarnath Yatra is organised by the administration and Shri Amarnathji Shrine Board . Every year notice for registration is issued well in advance of the Yatra which takes place usually in the months of July - August . Before proceeding look for requirements - registration , medical certificate of fitness valid during cave journey , age restrictions ( as yatra for children under 13 and seniors above 75 are banned )
2 . Do not make a tight schedule ,always keep some cushioning for return bookings as weather is quite uncertain . Also pilgrims are allowed in small batches if the rush is too much , so you may take more time than expected to reach up the cave .
3 . Take with you winter and rainy season garments . Keep some snacks and general medicines for fever , nausea and bodyache etc. handy in your kit .
4 . Seniors should not travel alone , better be in group with some one younger to help in need of emergency .
